Lori's Apple-Cranberry Pie

In the list of human failings, soggy pie crust is probably not the worst. Compared to child exploitation, nuclear proliferation, or suicide terrorism, it doesn't really rate. It’s totally a first-world problem.

But soggy pie crust is its own horror. One of the great characteristics of pie is that the crust has the potential to introduce texture into a dessert.

Texture isn't talked about much with desserts, but it’s very important. While you can make a pretty great dessert with only one texture, such as chocolate pudding, different textures elevate dessert to the sublime, the wonderful, maybe even artistic. I think that one of the driving factors behind the cupcake craze of the last decade has been the ease that cupcakes introduce texture to dessert. Beyond the cake, there was always a frosting (another texture,) often a topping (another texture,) and sometimes a filling (you get my point, right?)  Pie has similar possibilities: a well executed pie already has different textures built in.

Thus, my revulsion with soggy pie crust. When given the opportunity to create texture in an otherwise fine dessert, the creator of the pie instead chose a path that resulted in a crust that absorbed moisture and slowly became one with the filling. Where the filling ends and the crust begins is hard to determine. Furthermore, pie can be wonderful finger food, just pick up a piece and carry it back to the football game if your wife isn't watching. But you can’t do that with soggy crust.

But anyone who has attempted to make a crispy crust in a pie with a watery filling can tell you that this is easier said than done. Pies such as this one are just running with juices, it would be a shame to bind all that up with a starch, just to keep the liquid from making the crust sodden. I have tried prebaking crusts, I have tried different temperatures for different times, I even tried a couple of different recipes, but nothing seemed to work every time, for every pie.

Monroe Boston Strause felt the same way, and developed this crust for just this situation. It was further adapted by Shirley Corriher. At the moment, this is by far my favorite pie crust. Like any recipe, it takes time and experience to get used to using. One aspect that I’m struggling with is that it cooks to a rather dull brown, very unattractive. For this pie, I brushed the exposed crust with milk and sprinkled on sugar. That helped, but I’m still working on a solution.

This apple-cranberry pie is a favorite of a friend of mine, and I make it for her every chance I get. It’s tart/sweet, with the spices singing through. I avoided the temptation to add allspice, but don’t hold back on the nutmeg. It’s even better if you get your nutmeg whole and grate it with a microplane grater for a little more depth of flavor. Like I mentioned earlier, it does result in a rather liquid filling.  If that’s a real problem for you, you could add a little more starch. I’m replacing the original wheat flour with arrowroot starch.  It offers clear fruit juices, even when cooled. The flour-thickened juices are cloudy, which doesn't present as well. Regardless of those little details, it’s a delicious pie.

 Apple-Cranberry Pie Recipe

Crust:

1 ⅔ C. instant flour (such as Wondra)

7 Tbsp. + 1 ½ tsp. butter-flavored shortening

1 tsp. salt

2 scant tsp. nonfat dry milk powder

1 ½ tsp. light corn syrup

1 tsp. apple cider vinegar

¼ C. + 2 tsp. water

Process the flour and the shortening in a food processor until crumbly, rather worked in. 

In a measuring cup, stir together the salt, nonfat dry milk, corn syrup, vinegar, and water. Add this liquid to the flour mixture a little at a time, processing well after each addition. Process until the dough comes together.  I've found that it remains crumbly, and needs to be pressed together.)

Roll out the crust between two pieces of parchment paper.

Filling:

2 C. cranberries (I've used frozen, they worked just fine.)

1 C. sugar

½ C. orange juice, fresh squeezed

½ C. water

Zest of one orange

Fresh grated nutmeg

5-6 apples (a tart-sweet variety, such as Honey Crisp)

1/3 C. arrowroot starch

1 C. sugar

1 ¼ tsp. ground cinnamon

¾ tsp. fresh grated nutmeg

Roll out the pie crust to fit a deep ten-inch pie pan. Make the edge look pretty. Set the crust aside while you make the rest of the pie. I used the trimmings to make some circles (I’m going to have to work on my decorations!)

Put the cranberries, sugar, orange juice, water, orange zest, and pinch of fresh grated nutmeg into a pot. Put over medium heat and cook for a while, maybe 20-25 minutes. The berries should burst and the mixture should thicken a little. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Mix the arrowroot starch, sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a large bowl. Peel, core, and evenly slice the apples. Toss the apples with the sugar mixture.

Put the cranberry mixture into the bottom of the crust and spread it out evenly. Pour the apples on top of the cranberries. If you’re using any crust decorations, put them on top of the fruit.

Bake until the fruit is bubbling and the crust is brown, 45-50 minutes.

Let cool, serve at room temperature. Try not to eat the whole thing.